To write my own book was something I always had in the back of my mind. Actually doing it was like re-living the adrenaline rush of being in the water. I found myself typing faster and faster as I wrote about riding huge waves. I wanted people to actually feel like they were out there in the chaos with me. I wanted people to get close to a 60 foot wave. I wanted them to go through a serious wipe-out with me and feel the power. This isn't a book by an onlooker or photographer or a trained writer. This is my life. A no bull account of what it has taken for me to surf huge waves.
The story begins in Castlerock, Northern Ireland where I began surfing with my younger brother Andrew. We were lucky enough to have competed and travelled all over the world before my lifelong dream of surfing Mavericks in California became reality.
I quickly became obsessed with hunting for new big wave surf spots around the coast of Ireland and taking on bigger and bigger waves in the process. I talk about the fear I experienced surfing new locations far out at sea for the first time and the fear I face time and time again at all the now famous big wave spots around the island of Ireland.
I go into detail about all the challenges I have faced in this rugged exposed corner of the Atlantic whilst chasing waves and dreams with all that I have. I hope this book gives the reader a deeper understanding of the rewards and consequences of chasing dreams from a young age and what it is like to be obsessed with surfing bigger and bigger waves.
The story begins in Castlerock, Northern Ireland where I began surfing with my younger brother Andrew. We were lucky enough to have competed and travelled all over the world before my lifelong dream of surfing Mavericks in California became reality.
I quickly became obsessed with hunting for new big wave surf spots around the coast of Ireland and taking on bigger and bigger waves in the process. I talk about the fear I experienced surfing new locations far out at sea for the first time and the fear I face time and time again at all the now famous big wave spots around the island of Ireland.
I go into detail about all the challenges I have faced in this rugged exposed corner of the Atlantic whilst chasing waves and dreams with all that I have. I hope this book gives the reader a deeper understanding of the rewards and consequences of chasing dreams from a young age and what it is like to be obsessed with surfing bigger and bigger waves.
